The Karkhanah: From Court to Canvas: A Historical Analysis of Couture, Textiles and Ornaments in the Mughal Court During the Reign of Akbar and Jahangir
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.66871/trf-j.v1i4.006Keywords:
Karkhanah, Akbar, Jahangir, Royalty, Trade routes, Trading, Artisans, Fabrics, Royal GarmentAbstract
The Mughal “karkhanah” system, though not as advanced as modern industry, produced textiles of exceptional quality that surpassed those of most contemporary powers. Under strong royal patronage, workshops spread across Mughal India, with major centres at Cambay, Pattan, Kashmir, Gujarat, Ahmedabad, Bengal, Agra, Lahore, and Delhi. The court controlled two systems: independent artisans, who supplied their own capital, materials, and labour, and state-run “karkhanahs”, where artisans worked under imperial orders. Textile production expanded from the sixteenth century and flourished under Akbar, who promoted industries and welcomed foreign artisans. Cotton, silk, velvet, wool, and carpets became India’s leading industries, while the country earned global fame for silk brocade, pashmina, and fine muslin. Famous products included zardozi, chikankari, kalamkari, Banaras “kim-khwab”, Dhaka malmal, Kashmir shawls and carpets, and leather goods. Indian artisans showed remarkable technical skill in weaving, dyeing, printing, painting, and embroidery. These industries supported allied crafts, met domestic demand, and generated a large export surplus. Dutch, French, Portuguese, and British traders carried Indian textiles to Asia, Africa, and Europe, making textiles central to Mughal trade and prestige.
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